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Esquire has published a practical guide to corduroy, covering its uncertain name origins, history, wale widths and differences from Bedford cord. The report recommends starting with a jacket or trousers and pairing the warm, textured fabric with clothes that suit its casual character.
Esquire has published a guide to corduroy for readers unsure how to wear the ribbed fabric, outlining its history, how to understand wale widths and ways to add it to a wardrobe. The report presents corduroy as a warm, durable option that can bring texture to casual outfits, while noting that its heavier feel and informal character affect what it pairs well with.
The guide traces corduroy to fustian, a category of heavy cloth historically made from cotton, with other versions made from wool or linen. Its defining ridges, called wales, were developed in Manchester around the mid-18th century, according to the report. They are made by weaving extra thread into the fabric and trimming it to create raised lines separated by channels.
Wale count refers to how many ridges fit within an inch: a lower count means thicker, more prominent ridges. Esquire says standard corduroy generally falls around 11 to 13 wales per inch, while pinwale or needlecord is typically around 16 or more. The report characterizes chunkier corduroy as more rugged and finer versions as more refined.
The article distinguishes corduroy from Bedford cord, another durable fabric with vertical ridges. In Bedford cord, the ridges come from how the base fabric is woven, rather than extra threads that are trimmed. For first-time wearers, the guide suggests starting with a corduroy jacket, five-pocket trousers, an overshirt or a button-up shirt. A full suit is another option, though the article says elbow patches can push a jacket toward a professorial look.
Choosing Corduroy for Everyday Wear
The guide’s practical point is that corduroy is not limited to one look: a finer wale can feel more restrained, while a wider wale makes a stronger, more workwear-inspired statement. Knowing the count gives shoppers a useful way to compare fabrics and choose a texture that fits how they plan to wear it.
Its advice also addresses the fabric’s trade-offs. Corduroy can feel warmer than other materials, and the ribs may make a soft swishing sound as they rub together. Those qualities can make it useful in cooler weather, but less suited to every setting or combination. The report recommends pairing it with clothes that share its casual character, rather than highly technical or especially formal pieces.
For readers who want more texture without replacing an entire wardrobe, the suggested starting points—such as a jacket or a pair of trousers—make the fabric easier to try in a single piece. The article is style guidance, not a product review or a claim that corduroy suits every wearer or occasion.
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From Workwear to Modern Wardrobes
Esquire says corduroy became a workwear staple because it was durable and warm, before appearing in British country clothing and spreading more widely. In the first half of the 20th century, it became associated with U.S. academia, including the familiar image of a professor wearing a worn corduroy jacket with elbow patches.
The report describes a shift into 1960s counterculture and a major boom in the 1970s, when corduroy appeared on prominent figures on and off screen. Its popularity has since risen and fallen, the article says, but it remains a recurring menswear material. The guide also cautions against treating a popular story about its name as established history: the proposed French phrase “corde du roi,” or “cord of the king,” is likely apocryphal, and the word’s origin is not known for sure.
““The width of the wales is measured by how many you can fit into an inch.””
— Esquire’s corduroy guide
What the Guide Does Not Establish
The report is a style guide, not a market survey. It does not provide sales figures, expert testing results for corduroy generally, or evidence about how widely readers are adopting the fabric. Its opening reference to men being unsure about corduroy is described as an “unscientific poll,” so it should not be read as representative research.
The origin of the word corduroy also remains uncertain, according to the article; the “cord of the king” explanation is presented as doubtful rather than established. The guide does not set out a single rule for which wale count, garment or outfit works best for every person. Fit, fabric weight, climate and individual preference can all affect the choice.
How Readers Can Try the Fabric
The report does not announce a product launch, new collection or follow-up date. Its practical next step for readers is to choose one corduroy item—for example, a jacket, trousers or overshirt—and consider the wale width and warmth before wearing it. The article advises against pairing it with highly technical sportswear or especially polished formal clothing, favoring combinations with a similar casual feel.
Readers comparing options can use the guide’s wale-count reference as a starting point: lower counts have wider ridges, while higher counts produce finer lines. The source does not name particular products or prices, and it offers no formal buying test or measurement of garment performance.
Key Questions
What is corduroy?
Corduroy is a ribbed fabric with raised vertical lines called wales. Esquire traces it to fustian and says its ridges are made by weaving extra thread into a base fabric and trimming it.
What does wale count mean?
Wale count is the number of ridges per inch. A lower number, such as eight, indicates thicker ridges than a higher number, such as 12. The guide puts standard corduroy around 11 to 13 wales per inch and pinwale around 16 or more.
How should a beginner start wearing corduroy?
Esquire suggests trying a jacket, five-pocket trousers, an overshirt or a button-up before committing to a full suit. It advises considering the fabric’s warmth and pairing it with clothing that has a similarly casual feel.
Is Bedford cord the same as corduroy?
No. Both have vertical ridges, but Bedford cord’s ridges are formed through the weave of the base fabric. Corduroy’s ridges are made by adding and trimming extra threads, according to the guide.
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